If you have a G, you need to know about shocks. Mine came with a set of Bilsteins that are supposed to be pretty good, and slightly less expensive than the original Sachs. Unfortunately I was really bothered by how mushy the ride was. I thought it could be a poor balance between front & rear braking (it could, actually), but since I had a set of 100K mile used Sachs shocks on hand I decided to try them.
All I can say is wow. This is what the G was meant to be. The Bilsteins are apparently OK when new, but I was shocked to find how amazing the Sachs are, even with 100K miles of use! Be prepared - they're stiff. That's what I wanted though. I've got red springs in front & whites in the rear but still needed good dampening. Sachs are the only way to go as far as I'm concerned.
If you're looking for shocks, spring for the extra dough and get the ones that are going to work!
Thursday, December 29, 2011
Thursday, December 22, 2011
Evolution
Fast-forward a few months and I'm happily driving the G daily, working out the bugs and finding new ones as I go. There was a mysterious oil consumption problem that I attributed to a possible engine fault (can you say "worn rings"?), but thankfully I realized that it was only that pesky oil filter housing to engine block gasket that the 617a is known for. It would leak as I drove so I was mostly unaware of it save for a few drips overnight. Once the gasket went in, the problem went away. Hooray for simple fixes. Oh, and don't let some retailers convince you to buy special tools to remove the filter housing - I did it easily with a standard set of wrenches and a socket-wrench type hex key. The whole job took a couple of hours.
Other minor fixes included changing the fuel tank vent hoses that would leak every time I got a full tank of diesel, making my glow-plug light work on the instrument panel - it's pin #1 which will be vacant unless your G was originally a diesel, having my speedo & odo re-calibrated for 35" tires, centering my steering wheel which had been about 1/2 turn off center (do this by making sure the wheel and steering column alignment marks are matched, and then adjusting the steering rod from the pitmann arm to the right wheel.), mud flap delete, and replacing the dome light so I can see at night. Oh, and now the stereo is working again, though I'm itching to install an old Becker Grand-Prix that I've already modified to take an aux input.
As usual, other more serious problems have surfaced that now need attention. The brake master cylinder has started losing pressure while sitting at a light... only sometimes, one parking brake cable broke, and it appears that my rear proportioning valve has seized so the rear brakes do nothing. Worst of all, the front axle has a bit of slop at the right wheel, plus both front wheel bearings are loose - this is a bigger job and requires replacement of all of the axle bearings, seals, and likely the CV joints. A lot of this is pretty serious work, but despite the wear the G is driving great. If I'm planning to hit the Rubicon next summer then I'd better get everything ship-shape though. Here comes a big parts order!
Speaking of wheelin', I picked up a used Warn 8274 winch already mounted on a 2" receiver plate. I thought I would toss that plate and install the winch but the more I think about it the more it makes sense. Just install 2" female receivers front & rear so you can winch from either end. I've ordered the 500-amp quick-connects so I can get power easily too. It looks like I'm going to have to get on my custom bumper project and dual battery tray soon too!
For a 27-year old 4x4 with over 200K miles on it, I think all of this is not bad. I had a K5 Blazer with 99K miles that destroyed a rear diff. It ate a set of u-joints every 20K even with all of the shaft angles aligned.
Other minor fixes included changing the fuel tank vent hoses that would leak every time I got a full tank of diesel, making my glow-plug light work on the instrument panel - it's pin #1 which will be vacant unless your G was originally a diesel, having my speedo & odo re-calibrated for 35" tires, centering my steering wheel which had been about 1/2 turn off center (do this by making sure the wheel and steering column alignment marks are matched, and then adjusting the steering rod from the pitmann arm to the right wheel.), mud flap delete, and replacing the dome light so I can see at night. Oh, and now the stereo is working again, though I'm itching to install an old Becker Grand-Prix that I've already modified to take an aux input.
As usual, other more serious problems have surfaced that now need attention. The brake master cylinder has started losing pressure while sitting at a light... only sometimes, one parking brake cable broke, and it appears that my rear proportioning valve has seized so the rear brakes do nothing. Worst of all, the front axle has a bit of slop at the right wheel, plus both front wheel bearings are loose - this is a bigger job and requires replacement of all of the axle bearings, seals, and likely the CV joints. A lot of this is pretty serious work, but despite the wear the G is driving great. If I'm planning to hit the Rubicon next summer then I'd better get everything ship-shape though. Here comes a big parts order!
Speaking of wheelin', I picked up a used Warn 8274 winch already mounted on a 2" receiver plate. I thought I would toss that plate and install the winch but the more I think about it the more it makes sense. Just install 2" female receivers front & rear so you can winch from either end. I've ordered the 500-amp quick-connects so I can get power easily too. It looks like I'm going to have to get on my custom bumper project and dual battery tray soon too!
For a 27-year old 4x4 with over 200K miles on it, I think all of this is not bad. I had a K5 Blazer with 99K miles that destroyed a rear diff. It ate a set of u-joints every 20K even with all of the shaft angles aligned.
Thursday, May 12, 2011
Done!
Yes, it's done. All hooked up, and rattling like a paint shaker! Well, maybe not quite that much, but my G is back on the road with it's fancy new turbo-diesel. It took me 6 hours at a muffler shop to get the new exhaust system in place using the stock route & 2-1/2" pipe, but it's quiet as a mouse now and ready for the next 25 years (I hope).
Final work included throttle linkage modifications (I joined linkages from the 280GE and 300SD), installing the previously missing front drive-shaft (all seems okay with the axle & T-case so far), connecting various wires (Coolant temp is still inop, and I have no glow light yet), and installing the last 3/4" elbow for my valve cover breather - the hose arrived just in time!
The test drive was great, albeit without an exhaust system, but the turbo makes exhaust noise surprisingly quiet. No adjustment have been needed yet, but I'll go through and change fluids, adjust valves, purge injectors, change filters, etc next week.
One thing I noticed was that the rear end seemed to sag a little, and the drive quality was very mushy, like a top-heavy bus. Since I had my new set of springs in the garage I decided to install the rears just for kicks. Wow, it's a really good thing that I did. Those old springs had rusted so badly that the thinner tops and bottoms had broken through, and each spring came out in 3 pieces! The new ones popped right in and gave me a mild lift (~2") and much better ride.
The fronts are more involved to install so they'll have to wait until next week when I have more time. I know my front panhard bar is bent so when I remove it for the springs, I'll install a replacement at the same time. It's also a good time to replace the 4 flexible brake lines in front since they have to be removed anyway. That and some DOT-5 fluid will round out most of my scheduled upgrades. At some point my brush-bar will go on, but I'd really like to get it powder-coated first... more time... more money...
Sometime in the next year I'll think about painting my G, but that's another big project I have no time for at the moment. I want to just drive for now!
Final work included throttle linkage modifications (I joined linkages from the 280GE and 300SD), installing the previously missing front drive-shaft (all seems okay with the axle & T-case so far), connecting various wires (Coolant temp is still inop, and I have no glow light yet), and installing the last 3/4" elbow for my valve cover breather - the hose arrived just in time!
The test drive was great, albeit without an exhaust system, but the turbo makes exhaust noise surprisingly quiet. No adjustment have been needed yet, but I'll go through and change fluids, adjust valves, purge injectors, change filters, etc next week.
One thing I noticed was that the rear end seemed to sag a little, and the drive quality was very mushy, like a top-heavy bus. Since I had my new set of springs in the garage I decided to install the rears just for kicks. Wow, it's a really good thing that I did. Those old springs had rusted so badly that the thinner tops and bottoms had broken through, and each spring came out in 3 pieces! The new ones popped right in and gave me a mild lift (~2") and much better ride.
The fronts are more involved to install so they'll have to wait until next week when I have more time. I know my front panhard bar is bent so when I remove it for the springs, I'll install a replacement at the same time. It's also a good time to replace the 4 flexible brake lines in front since they have to be removed anyway. That and some DOT-5 fluid will round out most of my scheduled upgrades. At some point my brush-bar will go on, but I'd really like to get it powder-coated first... more time... more money...
Sometime in the next year I'll think about painting my G, but that's another big project I have no time for at the moment. I want to just drive for now!
Tuesday, May 10, 2011
Details, details...
Whew, that last 10% is killing me! I thought for sure I'd get her running today, but there really are so many small details that need attention. It's better to take your time and make sure everything is right than to rush through and forget things. Well, let's not assume I remembered everything!
Today I installed an in-line fuel filter close to the fuel tank. I couldn't tell if there was an in-tank filter, and I couldn't use the 280GE filter, so a nice clear 5/16" universal type did the trick. I like to see the junk coming out of my tank!
Next I installed the vacuum bypass valve from a 617.950 engine. I hope it works for the .951 I have, but it's the only one I could find anyway. While I was at it I also installed the 300GD ignition switch & vacuum lines for the shut off valve. Finally, I fabricated a custom vacuum supply line from the vac-pump to the brake booster using a combination of the 300GD and 300TD lines. A little boiling water and those plastic lines get just soft enough to slip onto those steel fittings. Now it even looks stock!
I had to modify my heater return hard line again, and install the 300GD return hose from the heater core to the heater valve in the engine bay. It looks like there are variations on valve placement and hose routing so this will likely be a custom job on any conversion.
The 280 engine required a lot of wiring that I will no longer need but mixed in there are a few important wires. I spent some time tracing and trying to figure out the important ones, but I'm not sure I'm done yet. Specifically, I need the glow-plug light wire, and glow sensor wire. It's not yet clear how I'm going to figure those out. I can always tap into the harness behind the instrument cluster for the light, but the sensor is completely unknown to me as of yet.
The radiator is fully in, along with it's shroud & oil cooler. I was told it'd have to be trimmed a bit due to the modified engine position, but everything seems okay for now. The lower radiator support and vertical crossbar also went in, but I'm waiting on the upper support until I install a new hood release cable - the old one was broken and the hood could not latch any more.
Well, tomorrow will be wiring and putting the last parts of the grille together. Amazingly, I just might be nearing the end of the conversion! I need to take some photos too!
Today I installed an in-line fuel filter close to the fuel tank. I couldn't tell if there was an in-tank filter, and I couldn't use the 280GE filter, so a nice clear 5/16" universal type did the trick. I like to see the junk coming out of my tank!
Next I installed the vacuum bypass valve from a 617.950 engine. I hope it works for the .951 I have, but it's the only one I could find anyway. While I was at it I also installed the 300GD ignition switch & vacuum lines for the shut off valve. Finally, I fabricated a custom vacuum supply line from the vac-pump to the brake booster using a combination of the 300GD and 300TD lines. A little boiling water and those plastic lines get just soft enough to slip onto those steel fittings. Now it even looks stock!
I had to modify my heater return hard line again, and install the 300GD return hose from the heater core to the heater valve in the engine bay. It looks like there are variations on valve placement and hose routing so this will likely be a custom job on any conversion.
The 280 engine required a lot of wiring that I will no longer need but mixed in there are a few important wires. I spent some time tracing and trying to figure out the important ones, but I'm not sure I'm done yet. Specifically, I need the glow-plug light wire, and glow sensor wire. It's not yet clear how I'm going to figure those out. I can always tap into the harness behind the instrument cluster for the light, but the sensor is completely unknown to me as of yet.
The radiator is fully in, along with it's shroud & oil cooler. I was told it'd have to be trimmed a bit due to the modified engine position, but everything seems okay for now. The lower radiator support and vertical crossbar also went in, but I'm waiting on the upper support until I install a new hood release cable - the old one was broken and the hood could not latch any more.
Well, tomorrow will be wiring and putting the last parts of the grille together. Amazingly, I just might be nearing the end of the conversion! I need to take some photos too!
Sunday, May 8, 2011
Nuts!
Lots & lots of drive-shaft nuts. Yep, the drive-shaft went back in today, and those self-locking nuts are a pain in the south side. There are just so many of them! Of course, I made sure the two halves of the drive shaft were aligned with the arrows pointing at each other.
While I was under there I also re-adjusted the shifter-rods to 3/4" longer. This is to compensate for the modified engine position when using the G-Wagen Preserve engine mounts. Everything seems to work fine so far.
I was also able to gut all of the 280GE fuel system junk from under the car. A fuel pump, filter, and accumulator are now gone, and all of the fuel lines are routed with much-simplified new hoses. Even the supply line at the engine was a breeze, but the return will require a double-ended nipple to join the cigar hose to the rubber return. No big deal.
The fan shroud & radiator are next - I put them in place but have to do a bit of massaging to get the shroud to fit past the oil cooler lines. The radiator appears to be recently installed NEW from Behr - a stroke of luck.
It will take a bit of creativity to route the heater valve & its hoses, and to make a bracket that will keep the heater return pipe from getting too close to the turbo. Those things are next, as is the ignition switch, and wiring.
Moving along...
While I was under there I also re-adjusted the shifter-rods to 3/4" longer. This is to compensate for the modified engine position when using the G-Wagen Preserve engine mounts. Everything seems to work fine so far.
I was also able to gut all of the 280GE fuel system junk from under the car. A fuel pump, filter, and accumulator are now gone, and all of the fuel lines are routed with much-simplified new hoses. Even the supply line at the engine was a breeze, but the return will require a double-ended nipple to join the cigar hose to the rubber return. No big deal.
The fan shroud & radiator are next - I put them in place but have to do a bit of massaging to get the shroud to fit past the oil cooler lines. The radiator appears to be recently installed NEW from Behr - a stroke of luck.
It will take a bit of creativity to route the heater valve & its hoses, and to make a bracket that will keep the heater return pipe from getting too close to the turbo. Those things are next, as is the ignition switch, and wiring.
Moving along...
Friday, May 6, 2011
Superpower Planted!
YES! The engine is IN. Everything went smoothly... almost.
After swapping the oil cooler lines from the 300GD onto my 300TD engine, discovering they don't fit, and swapping back again, I realized (thanks to Mike Serpe) that the oil cooler and upper cooler line still needed to be swapped. It's a little tricky with these lines. Whatever came on my 300TD engine seemed fine, but, apparently the TD upper oil cooler line can interfere with the power steering pump pulley nut. On the 300GD the nut is avoided by routing the hard-line around it diagonally. The oil cooler is also needed from the 300GD as it is 2-rows narrower than what came on the TD engine. I suspect my 280GE oil cooler would have worked fine also.
The bracket that supports these lines is also important - the TD bracket ended up being a good fit for both lines going under the engine mount; the 300GD bracket is for one over and one under, which will not work. I think the 300D engine has a shorter injection pump that allows more freedom for oil line routing.
Before dropping the engine in, I attached the belts, adjusted them, and prepared the intake hoses. The heater return pipe that I fabricated needed an adjustment, but the rest was fine.
Double-triple check everything... okay, lower it in! My cherry-picker is a light-duty fold-able unit from Harbor Freight. It may be a cheap tool at $125 but I have to say that it worked beautifully. I used a load leveler to do this, but it certainly was not necessary, and it's adjustment crank became blocked by the crane arm anyway. If I were to do this again I'd just use a chain to hold the engine.
Dipping the transmission in a bit lower than the engine, the whole assembly went in easily and with plenty of room to spare. I lowered the engine lightly onto the frame sockets and bolted the mounts and transmission up loosely. Once secure, I lowered the hoist completely and tightened everything up. It seemed like this should be a huge task but it went quickly and without trouble. All was done within an hour. What a relief!
Next I attached all of the intake ducts (3 blue silicone 90-degree fittings) and the crankcase breather & drain (Two 90-degree blue silicone fittings & my home-made oil separator/drain).
Next I have to figure out the wiring & sensors, and hook up the drive shafts! I hope to get that done this weekend and start tearing up the turf :)
After swapping the oil cooler lines from the 300GD onto my 300TD engine, discovering they don't fit, and swapping back again, I realized (thanks to Mike Serpe) that the oil cooler and upper cooler line still needed to be swapped. It's a little tricky with these lines. Whatever came on my 300TD engine seemed fine, but, apparently the TD upper oil cooler line can interfere with the power steering pump pulley nut. On the 300GD the nut is avoided by routing the hard-line around it diagonally. The oil cooler is also needed from the 300GD as it is 2-rows narrower than what came on the TD engine. I suspect my 280GE oil cooler would have worked fine also.
The bracket that supports these lines is also important - the TD bracket ended up being a good fit for both lines going under the engine mount; the 300GD bracket is for one over and one under, which will not work. I think the 300D engine has a shorter injection pump that allows more freedom for oil line routing.
Before dropping the engine in, I attached the belts, adjusted them, and prepared the intake hoses. The heater return pipe that I fabricated needed an adjustment, but the rest was fine.
Double-triple check everything... okay, lower it in! My cherry-picker is a light-duty fold-able unit from Harbor Freight. It may be a cheap tool at $125 but I have to say that it worked beautifully. I used a load leveler to do this, but it certainly was not necessary, and it's adjustment crank became blocked by the crane arm anyway. If I were to do this again I'd just use a chain to hold the engine.
Dipping the transmission in a bit lower than the engine, the whole assembly went in easily and with plenty of room to spare. I lowered the engine lightly onto the frame sockets and bolted the mounts and transmission up loosely. Once secure, I lowered the hoist completely and tightened everything up. It seemed like this should be a huge task but it went quickly and without trouble. All was done within an hour. What a relief!
Next I attached all of the intake ducts (3 blue silicone 90-degree fittings) and the crankcase breather & drain (Two 90-degree blue silicone fittings & my home-made oil separator/drain).
Wednesday, May 4, 2011
Back In Black
Whoa, yep, that was a bit of a break I took. Well, actually I've been working on small details that ended up taking much more time than I had anticipated. Here are the updates so far:
The vacuum bypass valve between the intake & IP was obtained from a 617.950 engine. It looks good and like it should work, but I don't know enough about these valves yet to be sure. Is there a difference in vacuum levels or turbo performance as compared to the 617.951? We'll see. To my surprise, these things have been missing from every junkyard car I've come accross - that's why I went for this one since it was the only one I could find.
I now have a cruise control amplifier from a 1983 300SD. It's the 14-pin digital type, and I've got a diagram of all of the pin-outs to try to make this work later. I also found a very informative site that basically tells you how to troubleshoot these systems.
My previously feared heater return hard-line and valve-cover breather tubes are now fabricated! I used some 3/4" tubing and a manual ratcheting bender to make these each in one piece. I also fabricated my own oil separator and welded it to the breather, including a nipple cut off a steel air cleaner so I can use the stock oil drain near the turbo. The oil separator has a 1-1/2" tube extension on it to mate to the air cleaner via some silicone elbows ordered from www.siliconeintakes.com. The air cleaner previously had a water/debris drain with a rubber bulb attached to it at the rear; I'm removing that and hooking up the vent in it's place. If I suck up some water or leaves I'll have to remove them manually I guess - I don't really plan to get that crazy.
I FINALLY got my pilot bearing. The vendor was fairly local but - jimminy-cricket - took 2 weeks to send my part. Wah! Anyway, now I need to have the exterior of the bearing ground about 4 thousandths so I can press it into the existing crankshaft opening - MB made 2 out of the 3 necessary machining steps on these cranks so the opening is not a true 35mm. Mine measured 34.85mm and there should only be about a thousandth overlap for an interference fit (sorry to be switching units but...). I hope to find a grinding shop to modify my bearing tomorrow.
None of my door locks worked with the ignition key, so I found a complete set plus a diesel ignition switch on a 300GD parts car - 4 keys included!!! Score! One seems to be fused onto the door though... I might need a torch.
The same 300GD had a really cool bracket to replace the A/C pump mount on my 300TD motor. It's a stamped sheet-metal part that allows you to remove that massive A/C mount, and still have a place to bolt down the oil line brace. So simple!
I've also received a new pair of fog lights to replace the one broken one I had. After some eBay browsing, I also ended up repairing one of my "E-code" headlight that has the 2ndary "city" bulbs too. One assembly came apart such that the lens separated cleanly from the housing. A little gorillla-glue and life is good again.
The fancy new engine mounts from Mike Serpe at Gwagen-Preserve went on nicely. They couldn't be simpler! I hope things line up when the engine goes in this weekend!
I placed a painful order at Eurotruck for a set of red-front, white-rear suspension springs, plus various rubber parts, shift-linkage bushings, brake hoses, etc. I'll have a lot of this stuff apart anyway so now is the time to do them!
After reading about some brake bleeding tricks I ended up making my own pressure bleeder using a $9 bug sprayer from Home Depot, and a spare reservoir cap I picked up at Pick-n-pull. I drilled a hole in the center of the cap and epoxied in a plastic nipple to attach the sprayer line to. I decided not to install a pressure gauge just because there seems to be adequate feedback when pumping up the bottle. I expect about 10lbs to be plenty to make the fluid flow. I'm also using mil-spec silicone brake fluid that I purchased by the gallon on eBay. It's the good stuff, and only about $35 a gallon plus shipping. I plan to convert all of the hydraulic systems after the new hoses go on.
Well, I'll take & post more photos soon, but that's the update.
The vacuum bypass valve between the intake & IP was obtained from a 617.950 engine. It looks good and like it should work, but I don't know enough about these valves yet to be sure. Is there a difference in vacuum levels or turbo performance as compared to the 617.951? We'll see. To my surprise, these things have been missing from every junkyard car I've come accross - that's why I went for this one since it was the only one I could find.
I now have a cruise control amplifier from a 1983 300SD. It's the 14-pin digital type, and I've got a diagram of all of the pin-outs to try to make this work later. I also found a very informative site that basically tells you how to troubleshoot these systems.
My previously feared heater return hard-line and valve-cover breather tubes are now fabricated! I used some 3/4" tubing and a manual ratcheting bender to make these each in one piece. I also fabricated my own oil separator and welded it to the breather, including a nipple cut off a steel air cleaner so I can use the stock oil drain near the turbo. The oil separator has a 1-1/2" tube extension on it to mate to the air cleaner via some silicone elbows ordered from www.siliconeintakes.com. The air cleaner previously had a water/debris drain with a rubber bulb attached to it at the rear; I'm removing that and hooking up the vent in it's place. If I suck up some water or leaves I'll have to remove them manually I guess - I don't really plan to get that crazy.
I FINALLY got my pilot bearing. The vendor was fairly local but - jimminy-cricket - took 2 weeks to send my part. Wah! Anyway, now I need to have the exterior of the bearing ground about 4 thousandths so I can press it into the existing crankshaft opening - MB made 2 out of the 3 necessary machining steps on these cranks so the opening is not a true 35mm. Mine measured 34.85mm and there should only be about a thousandth overlap for an interference fit (sorry to be switching units but...). I hope to find a grinding shop to modify my bearing tomorrow.
None of my door locks worked with the ignition key, so I found a complete set plus a diesel ignition switch on a 300GD parts car - 4 keys included!!! Score! One seems to be fused onto the door though... I might need a torch.
The same 300GD had a really cool bracket to replace the A/C pump mount on my 300TD motor. It's a stamped sheet-metal part that allows you to remove that massive A/C mount, and still have a place to bolt down the oil line brace. So simple!
I've also received a new pair of fog lights to replace the one broken one I had. After some eBay browsing, I also ended up repairing one of my "E-code" headlight that has the 2ndary "city" bulbs too. One assembly came apart such that the lens separated cleanly from the housing. A little gorillla-glue and life is good again.
The fancy new engine mounts from Mike Serpe at Gwagen-Preserve went on nicely. They couldn't be simpler! I hope things line up when the engine goes in this weekend!
I placed a painful order at Eurotruck for a set of red-front, white-rear suspension springs, plus various rubber parts, shift-linkage bushings, brake hoses, etc. I'll have a lot of this stuff apart anyway so now is the time to do them!
After reading about some brake bleeding tricks I ended up making my own pressure bleeder using a $9 bug sprayer from Home Depot, and a spare reservoir cap I picked up at Pick-n-pull. I drilled a hole in the center of the cap and epoxied in a plastic nipple to attach the sprayer line to. I decided not to install a pressure gauge just because there seems to be adequate feedback when pumping up the bottle. I expect about 10lbs to be plenty to make the fluid flow. I'm also using mil-spec silicone brake fluid that I purchased by the gallon on eBay. It's the good stuff, and only about $35 a gallon plus shipping. I plan to convert all of the hydraulic systems after the new hoses go on.
Well, I'll take & post more photos soon, but that's the update.
Friday, April 22, 2011
Dirty Work
Well, I can't say it was so interesting, but I'd stripped my old M110 280GE motor and needed it gone asap. After it rolled around the back of my truck & spilled oil everywhere, I decided to make the trek across town and give the motor to a local Mercedes dismantler I've used for over 20 years.
It's amazing the treasures they have, but this was a donation-type visit so I had to keep it quick. Of course, they were happy to take a nice motor if even just for the head, but these guys have always helped me out and are more in the friend category than anything else so I left with a vintage-correct Becker Grand Prix stereo that I'd wanted for years. It's not a very good radio actually, but it's what looks right in an older Mercedes!
Now I can organize the garage and finish assembling the powertrain in peace. I pulled out the pressure washer again to clean off the years of grease & dirt all over the engine bay. It's sort of amazing what a difference a bit of water can make. It's also much nicer to work on a clean car! All of the ignition & gasoline hardware is out now so that truck is just itchin' to have it's new motor. Where are those @#!! motor-mount arms??? Well... and the pilot bearing.... and the intake duct... and...
Sorry but no pics this time. Too much going on with Easter... the G will have to be patient until next week, sigh...
It's amazing the treasures they have, but this was a donation-type visit so I had to keep it quick. Of course, they were happy to take a nice motor if even just for the head, but these guys have always helped me out and are more in the friend category than anything else so I left with a vintage-correct Becker Grand Prix stereo that I'd wanted for years. It's not a very good radio actually, but it's what looks right in an older Mercedes!
Now I can organize the garage and finish assembling the powertrain in peace. I pulled out the pressure washer again to clean off the years of grease & dirt all over the engine bay. It's sort of amazing what a difference a bit of water can make. It's also much nicer to work on a clean car! All of the ignition & gasoline hardware is out now so that truck is just itchin' to have it's new motor. Where are those @#!! motor-mount arms??? Well... and the pilot bearing.... and the intake duct... and...
Sorry but no pics this time. Too much going on with Easter... the G will have to be patient until next week, sigh...
Monday, April 18, 2011
Scrub-a-dub
Cleaned up the flywheel & clutch parts today. There really was a ton of "gook" all over the place, and I thought I lost a flywheel bolt for a while there (found it in my parts washer). Now the flywheel is on and I'm ready to join to the transmission.
Unfortunately, that's about all I could get to, but I did order a third 90-degree silicone air duct since I had previously failed to measure out the path well enough. While I was at it I got a kit of various vacuum hoses to replace some of the fuel injection returns, and possibly a vacuum line or two. Gwagen Preserve provided me with some pricing for a few odds & ends that I needed - a euro headlight, differential lock knob, and engine mount arms. I can't wait for those!
Hopefully more photos and progress tomorrow.
Unfortunately, that's about all I could get to, but I did order a third 90-degree silicone air duct since I had previously failed to measure out the path well enough. While I was at it I got a kit of various vacuum hoses to replace some of the fuel injection returns, and possibly a vacuum line or two. Gwagen Preserve provided me with some pricing for a few odds & ends that I needed - a euro headlight, differential lock knob, and engine mount arms. I can't wait for those!
Hopefully more photos and progress tomorrow.
Saturday, April 16, 2011
Flippin' Flywheel
I went to pull the 300GD flywheel today. It was a complete assembly with the clutch & pressure plate, but as luck would have it the rear main seal of the engine had leaked oil all over the place. The clutch lining seems to be fine, but everything is coated with a heavy layer of oil/grease/dirt. I hope a long soak in some solvent will take care of it, but I know Guido in Germany has new parts for lots of $$.
The flywheel is held on by 12 bolts, each with 12-point 12mm heads. I thought I'd need some sort of special socket for them, but a standard 12mm 12-point socket will work fine. I also had to jam a screwdriver in the fan belt to keep the engine from turning while I broke the bolts loose - they're really on there. I must say, that is one massive flywheel. It seems absurdly large and deeply dished, but I guess that should help low-end starting.
The other news of the day is my silicone air supply ducts arrived! Here's a shot of the reducing elbow test-fit onto the turbo. SiliconeIntakes.com does a nice job, and everything is off the shelf. Two elbows, a coupler, and four hose clamps for about $45 delivered. Not bad, and a nice clean finished look.
Friday, April 15, 2011
A Transmission From Afar
Even though I'm on a tight budget and should be focusing on my engine, I noticed that my transmission had been worked on and replacing it would be a good idea. The work indicates only that someone opened & re-sealed it, but who knows what's going on inside. I'd rather have a backup at least.
I have to say that the decision was helped by the chance availability of a low mileage good unit for a great price. Along with it I grabbed a GD flywheel, clutch, throwout bearing, and driveshaft (formerly missing). I'm planning to go back and grab the throttle linkage, tachometer parts, and some various hardware, hoses, etc. There are many details that are easy to miss.
Next week I'll have the Gwagen-Preserve engine mounts so I can install everything. They are superior to the 300GD mounts because they provide clearance both from the oil-pan to differential, and engine to steering box. Mike's worked hard to perfect them and I'm looking forward to trying them out. For the record, they're cheaper than the MB units, which are very difficult to find.
Well, that's it today I guess. It seemed like a lot more was happening - probably because I had to pull all of the parts myself!
I have to say that the decision was helped by the chance availability of a low mileage good unit for a great price. Along with it I grabbed a GD flywheel, clutch, throwout bearing, and driveshaft (formerly missing). I'm planning to go back and grab the throttle linkage, tachometer parts, and some various hardware, hoses, etc. There are many details that are easy to miss.
Next week I'll have the Gwagen-Preserve engine mounts so I can install everything. They are superior to the 300GD mounts because they provide clearance both from the oil-pan to differential, and engine to steering box. Mike's worked hard to perfect them and I'm looking forward to trying them out. For the record, they're cheaper than the MB units, which are very difficult to find.
Well, that's it today I guess. It seemed like a lot more was happening - probably because I had to pull all of the parts myself!
Thursday, April 14, 2011
Engine Test
I've read about some who have acquired diesel engines, installed them, and only later discovered that they smoke, burn oil or worse. Mike advised me to bench test my engine - so I did. Good advice, and thank goodness I turned out to be one of the lucky ones (so far as I can tell). I connected my glow plug relay, battery and a diesel tank, and in a few minutes I had the beauty purring like a kitten. I love the simplicity of the old diesels, and this one seems to fire up right away and leave no mysterious noises to wonder about. Even without the exhaust hooked up she ran beautifully and without much noise. I can't wait to get her installed!
Other research today involved a long talk with Eurotruck Importers, mainly regarding suspension spring tension & height. I'm hoping to replace my springs with something stiffer but not too high. I also want to make the front & back balance out so the truck is level. After much discussion I can't say I'm any closer to an answer, but Mike told me earlier about buying rear springs and having fronts custom-made to match. That may be the best way... but for now It's less clearly defined. This falls into the category of "un-necessary repairs" so I'll have to wait a bit, but it would be nice to save on some shipping if I can. I also have to get some shifter bushings and a few other odds & ends.
Tomorrow I may try to pull the transmission. We'll see.
Wednesday, April 13, 2011
Dead Engine B-Gone!
Okay, it took me a few days, but the work really wasn't that bad. The engine came out after removing the final 4 bolts that hold the rubber engine mounts to the frame. Although a bit messy, the bulk of the work was removing wires, hoses, and the whole front radiator/grille/supports. Along with this was my non-functioning A/C system that I secretly hope to put back in eventually.
The transmission bolts were all easy except the two top-most bolts that could barely be seen, let alone removed with hand tools. Fortunately, I discovered that a LONG ratchet extension and a 17mm wobble-socket did the trick nicely. Be aware that both bolts have to be removed from the right-hand side of the trans as the left has all of the shift linkages in the way. It's tight but do-able without bloody knuckles.
It's not hard to see why the engine was running so poorly - a thrown rod punctured both sides of the block and oil pan. The block is for sale if anyone needs a boat anchor. Say, five bucks obo?
On a different note, I cruised up to Marin county, CA this morning to meet Mr. ClubGwagen/G-Wagen Preserve moderator Mike Serpe. He's one heck of a guy, very knowledgeable, and enormously helpful with advice. He's also got his hands on a wealth of parts new & used, and top-of-the-line modified parts. I've had numerous conversations with him by phone, and never any pressure to sell me something. I want to buy everything from him just because of this! If you need help with a G, Mike is the guy to hook you up.
Next I plan to clean up the engine bay, and check my driveline components. Mike will bring me some of his custom engine mounts for my turbodiesel motor next week, so I have some time to kill.
Sunday, April 10, 2011
A New Engine...
Well, after a lot of forum surfing and asking questions to the local "G experts", I decided to transplant a turbodiesel motor from a 300D/SD/TD. I have yet to see anyone's start-to-finish accounting of making the swap, but I think I have a pretty good handle on it. It sounds like the swap is easier with an automatic transmission, but I'm going to stick with the 4-speed for now. Of course, we all dream about a 5-speed...
So far, I know I need:
1. 300GD motor mounts
2. 300GD motor mount arms OR Gwagen Preserve's improved mounts (better)
3. 300GD flywheel - my 280GE flywheel will NOT work
4. 300GD clutch & pressure plate - 280GE will NOT work
5. 300GD vacuum line from pump to brake booster
6. 300D air/oil trap (or an aftermarket unit)
7. All exhaust components from any turbodiesel - to be modified heavily at a muffler shop
8. Any turbodiesel air cleaner or new air ducts to hook up the 280GE air cleaner to the turbo intake (this looks like two 90 degree bends - one reducing from 3" to 2.25", the other 3" to 3"; and a coupler for them)
9. Glow plug relay
10. Ignition switch housing from a diesel (for the vacuum engine cutoff)
11. 300GD tachometer & tach amplifier
I'm sure there will be more that bubbles up, but this is a start.
Thanks to craigslist and a crazy Thai dude named Jeff, I sourced an OM 617.951 turbo engine with only 119K miles on it! Part of the deal was to get ALL accessories and parts needed for a swap - and Jeff really set me up. I got a complete exhaust system still with the OEM stickers on it, pulled from a wrecked TD. The glow plug relay is pretty tired looking but he gave me a warranty on everything so I'm not too worried. All of the accessories are there & seem to be in good shape. Jeff even loaded me up with an air cleaner & associated hoses, a huge bucket of spare hardware and a wide assortment of hoses and vacuum lines, just in case. It was fun doing business, thanks Jeff!
I've only just started to disconnect the old motor from the chassis, but everything seems pretty straight-forward so far. The only thing I'm not looking forward to is removing the bolts from the top of the engine/transmission. I can barely see them, let alone get my hand & a wrench up there. I've pressure washed both the diesel engine & the 280 just to make working a little easier. Tomorrow I hope to be looking at an empty engine bay!
So far, I know I need:
1. 300GD motor mounts
2. 300GD motor mount arms OR Gwagen Preserve's improved mounts (better)
3. 300GD flywheel - my 280GE flywheel will NOT work
4. 300GD clutch & pressure plate - 280GE will NOT work
5. 300GD vacuum line from pump to brake booster
6. 300D air/oil trap (or an aftermarket unit)
7. All exhaust components from any turbodiesel - to be modified heavily at a muffler shop
8. Any turbodiesel air cleaner or new air ducts to hook up the 280GE air cleaner to the turbo intake (this looks like two 90 degree bends - one reducing from 3" to 2.25", the other 3" to 3"; and a coupler for them)
9. Glow plug relay
10. Ignition switch housing from a diesel (for the vacuum engine cutoff)
11. 300GD tachometer & tach amplifier
I'm sure there will be more that bubbles up, but this is a start.
Thanks to craigslist and a crazy Thai dude named Jeff, I sourced an OM 617.951 turbo engine with only 119K miles on it! Part of the deal was to get ALL accessories and parts needed for a swap - and Jeff really set me up. I got a complete exhaust system still with the OEM stickers on it, pulled from a wrecked TD. The glow plug relay is pretty tired looking but he gave me a warranty on everything so I'm not too worried. All of the accessories are there & seem to be in good shape. Jeff even loaded me up with an air cleaner & associated hoses, a huge bucket of spare hardware and a wide assortment of hoses and vacuum lines, just in case. It was fun doing business, thanks Jeff!
I've only just started to disconnect the old motor from the chassis, but everything seems pretty straight-forward so far. The only thing I'm not looking forward to is removing the bolts from the top of the engine/transmission. I can barely see them, let alone get my hand & a wrench up there. I've pressure washed both the diesel engine & the 280 just to make working a little easier. Tomorrow I hope to be looking at an empty engine bay!
The Saga Begins...
Okay, I always wanted a G but could never find the right deal... well, I'm not a rich man either so I've been looking for a project. As luck would have it, a clean 280GE SWB popped up in a neighboring state with a blown engine. After a pathetic offer on my part, and a few days to think about it, the seller accepted! Off I went with my pickup (soon to be replaced by the G), a trailer, and a small envelope of cash. It was a long drive, but well worth it.
Now the fun starts. There were some nice surprises, such as a brand new stereo, amp & speakers, both rear jump seats, all new upholstery, all new exhaust, original alloys & good tires and only 98K on the clock. The speedo is in MPH, which suggests this car came in and got federalized, and the ID plate confirmed this with an import date of 1983 - all very good things, especially if you live in California where its becoming increasingly difficult to register imports. Oh, and did I mention the "barn doors" in the rear? Oh yeah...
One of the less-nice surprises was the missing front driveshaft... why was it removed??? Now the modified exhaust header is routed in that spot, which is okay because it will have to go when the new engine arrives anyway. Still, the question remains: why was it removed? Bad transfer case? Bad front axle? The front locker is all there but the hydraulic fluid is gone. I'm starting to worry.
Overall it's a great truck. With some mechanical attention and a paint job it will come back to life!
Now the fun starts. There were some nice surprises, such as a brand new stereo, amp & speakers, both rear jump seats, all new upholstery, all new exhaust, original alloys & good tires and only 98K on the clock. The speedo is in MPH, which suggests this car came in and got federalized, and the ID plate confirmed this with an import date of 1983 - all very good things, especially if you live in California where its becoming increasingly difficult to register imports. Oh, and did I mention the "barn doors" in the rear? Oh yeah...
One of the less-nice surprises was the missing front driveshaft... why was it removed??? Now the modified exhaust header is routed in that spot, which is okay because it will have to go when the new engine arrives anyway. Still, the question remains: why was it removed? Bad transfer case? Bad front axle? The front locker is all there but the hydraulic fluid is gone. I'm starting to worry.
Overall it's a great truck. With some mechanical attention and a paint job it will come back to life!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)