Wednesday, May 4, 2011

Back In Black

Whoa, yep, that was a bit of a break I took.  Well, actually I've been working on small details that ended up taking much more time than I had anticipated.  Here are the updates so far:

The vacuum bypass valve between the intake & IP was obtained from a 617.950 engine.  It looks good and like it should work, but I don't know enough about these valves yet to be sure.  Is there a difference in vacuum levels or turbo performance as compared to the 617.951?  We'll see.  To my surprise, these things have been missing from every junkyard car I've come accross - that's why I went for this one since it was the only one I could find.

I now have a cruise control amplifier from a 1983 300SD.  It's the 14-pin digital type, and I've got a diagram of all of the pin-outs to try to make this work later.  I also found a very informative site that basically tells you how to troubleshoot these systems.

My previously feared heater return hard-line and valve-cover breather tubes are now fabricated!  I used some 3/4" tubing and a manual ratcheting bender to make these each in one piece.  I also fabricated my own oil separator and welded it to the breather, including a nipple cut off a steel air cleaner so I can use the stock oil drain near the turbo.  The oil separator has a 1-1/2" tube extension on it to mate to the air cleaner via some silicone elbows ordered from www.siliconeintakes.com.  The air cleaner previously had a water/debris drain with a rubber bulb attached to it at the rear; I'm removing that and hooking up the vent in it's place.  If I suck up some water or leaves I'll have to remove them manually I guess - I don't really plan to get that crazy.

I FINALLY got my pilot bearing.  The vendor was fairly local but - jimminy-cricket - took 2 weeks to send my part.  Wah!  Anyway, now I need to have the exterior of the bearing ground about 4 thousandths so I can press it into the existing crankshaft opening - MB made 2 out of the 3 necessary machining steps on these cranks so the opening is not a true 35mm.  Mine measured 34.85mm and there should only be about a thousandth overlap for an interference fit (sorry to be switching units but...).  I hope to find a grinding shop to modify my bearing tomorrow.

None of my door locks worked with the ignition key, so I found a complete set plus a diesel ignition switch on a 300GD parts car - 4 keys included!!!  Score!  One seems to be fused onto the door though... I might need a torch.

The same 300GD had a really cool bracket to replace the A/C pump mount on my 300TD motor.  It's a stamped sheet-metal part that allows you to remove that massive A/C mount, and still have a place to bolt down the oil line brace.  So simple!

I've also received a new pair of fog lights to replace the one broken one I had.  After some eBay browsing, I also ended up repairing one of my "E-code" headlight that has the 2ndary "city" bulbs too.  One assembly came apart such that the lens separated cleanly from the housing.  A little gorillla-glue and life is good again.

The fancy new engine mounts from Mike Serpe at Gwagen-Preserve went on nicely.  They couldn't be simpler!  I hope things line up when the engine goes in this weekend!

I placed a painful order at Eurotruck for a set of red-front, white-rear suspension springs, plus various rubber parts, shift-linkage bushings, brake hoses, etc.  I'll have a lot of this stuff apart anyway so now is the time to do them!

After reading about some brake bleeding tricks I ended up making my own pressure bleeder using a $9 bug sprayer from Home Depot, and a spare reservoir cap I picked up at Pick-n-pull.  I drilled a hole in the center of the cap and epoxied in a plastic nipple to attach the sprayer line to.  I decided not to install a pressure gauge just because there seems to be adequate feedback when pumping up the bottle.  I expect about 10lbs to be plenty to make the fluid flow.  I'm also using mil-spec silicone brake fluid that I purchased by the gallon on eBay.  It's the good stuff, and only about $35 a gallon plus shipping.  I plan to convert all of the hydraulic systems after the new hoses go on.

Well, I'll take & post more photos soon, but that's the update.

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